From Namaste to Ni Hao, Traveling Between Nepal and China (Part 1)

The winter trip of 2025 wasn’t planned at all. As usual, it turned into an impromptu decision that only came together in early December. The year had been incredibly busy and hectic, and I still had plenty of annual leave left so I decided it was time to use it. More than anything, I needed a real break from my laptop.

China was at the top of our list. I had already mapped out a two-week itinerary covering Beijing, Inner Mongolia, Xi’an, and Chengdu. Unfortunately, as often happens, we didn’t have enough time to apply for a China visa. That’s when I started looking for alternatives, and that’s how Nepal entered the picture.

The plan evolved into visiting Nepal first, then flying into China from Kathmandu, and finally flying out to Kuala Lumpur. This route allowed us to meet the China’s 240-hour visa free transit requirement of traveling to a third country, rather than returning to the country of departure.

What to Do in Nepal?

At first, I imagined Nepal as an easy and relaxing trip. I told my daughter and my husband that we wouldn’t be climbing any mountains, just heading to Pokhara to take it slow and enjoy the scenery.

A few days later, I casually floated a new idea to Helmy: What if we try the Mardi Himal trek? No guide, just the three of us, moving at our own pace, relaxed and easy. As usual, Helmy said yes, even though I could tell he was quietly questioning my decision. Both of use haven’t exercise for years, it will be hard for us.

Not long after that, I started considering a visit to Chitwan National Park. But one evening on the way home, while scrolling through Instagram, I stumbled upon a beautiful post about Ghandruk. It was a reel of a cozy homestay with the sun setting over the Annapurna range. I was instantly sold. That night, I revised the plan to make sure Ghandruk was part of our journey.

Then, of course another Instagram post appeared. This time it was about Khopra Danda, a stunning viewpoint overlooking the Annapurna range. It turned out to be a relatively new trek, only gaining popularity recently. Once again, I was sold. I redesigned the trekking route yet again, determined to include Khopra Danda in our itinerary.

With limited time and an increasingly ambitious plan, I finally decided to hire a guide. A quick Google search led me to a trekking agency in Pokhara, and just like that I made a deal with them. Decisions were made. Adventure confirmed. 😄

NEPAL

We arrived in Kathmandu at 8:00 PM and were picked up by a driver from our hotel in Thamel. We stayed one night in Kailash Boutique Hotel and spent the next day wandering around Thamel. Doing some last-minute mountaineering gear shopping, getting our Momos fix, and soaking in the pre-trek atmosphere. That evening, we boarded a night bus to Pokhara.

I went back and forth on whether to fly or take the bus, but it turned out the night bus was a great option. The tourist bus was clean, fairly comfortable, and very affordable, it was USD 10 per person when booked online. We left Kathmandu at 7:00 PM and arrived in Pokhara at 5:00 AM the next morning.

Mr. Mohan from North Nepal Travel & Trek pick us up from the terminal. We headed to his beautiful office near Phewa Lake, where we repacked our bags and met our guide, Milan. Not long after, it was time to say goodbye to Pokhara, the jeep was waiting to take us to Swanta, the starting point of our trek.

I’ll be sharing a detailed trek report later, but here’s a quick overview of our journey. With Mr. Mohan’s help in refining the plan, we finalized a five-day Khopra Danda Ridge and Muldai View Trek, short, scenic, and perfectly packed with Annapurna views.

Day 1: Jeep Ride from Pokhara to Swanta (2,200m)
We began with a scenic off-road jeep drive to the beautiful village of Swanta. The journey took about 5–6 hours, but it was relaxed and enjoyable, with stunning countryside views along the way. We spent the night in Swanta, making this an easy and gentle start to the trek.

Day 2: Swanta to Rock Land (3,000m)
The real trekking began today. We hiked uphill through oak and rhododendron forests, stopping at Chistibung for lunch before continuing the steady climb toward Khopra Danda (3,660m). Originally, we planned to stay at the Khopra Danda Community Lodge but eventually decided to overnight at a teahouse in Rock Land (3,000m).

This first full day of trekking was tough for both Helmy and me, as expected. Cici, on the other hand, was the star of the day, happily walking ahead with our guide the entire time 😄.

Day 3: Rock Land to Dobato (3,420m)
We trekked along the ridge toward Dobato, another full day on the trail. We chose to skip going all the way up to Khopra Danda, worried that we might reach Dobato after dark. Milan assured us it would be a short day, but knowing our pace, we didn’t want to risk it. The second trekking day was another challenging one for me, made even harder by the heat. Cici arrived in Dobato with our porter, Uncle Jon, at around 5:30 PM, while Helmy and I followed an hour later at 6:30 PM.

Day 4: Muldai View Point (3,670m) & Trek to Tadapani (2,600m)
We started early at 6:00 AM to hike up to Muldai View Point for sunrise. Milan said it would take just 30 minutes, and he was right… for Cici 😆. Helmy and I moved slowly, but we made it in time for sunrise. The view was absolutely spectacular, quiet, vast, and incredibly beautiful.

After breakfast, we left Dobato and descended through magical forests to Tadapani. We stayed in one of the most beautiful teahouses of the trip, with Machapuchare and Annapurna South standing majestically right in front of our room.

Day 5: Tadapani to Ghandruk (1,940m) & Return to Pokhara
On the final day, we continued descending to Ghandruk before taking a jeep back to Pokhara, officially marking the end of our trek. At Tadapani, we met with Ding’s family, our friends back in KL. Our kids use to train together as triathletes.

We arrived in Pokhara around 4:00 PM and enjoyed a coffee with Milan and Uncle Jon before they headed home by bus. Once again, Mr. Mohan kindly drove us to the bus terminal, and that evening we made our way back to Kathmandu, tired, happy, and full of unforgettable memories.

KATHMANDU

We arrived in Kathmandu early in the morning and were incredibly lucky, the hotel allowed us an early check-in, which meant hot showers before heading out once again to wander through Thamel. It felt like a small luxury after the trek.

That day, we discovered a wonderful halal Chinese restaurant and loved it so much that we ended up eating there three times. We even went back again the next morning for breakfast, clearly a good find.

Cici and I treated ourselves to a spa session, and it was heavenly. Honestly, I still don’t know how my body survived the trekking without any TRAINING. We also stumbled upon a lovely bookshop and couldn’t resist buying a stack of books, they were surprisingly cheap.

The next day we left for China with full hearts. Grateful for the chance to return, to wander again, and to truly savor each moment. I don’t know when I’ll return to Nepal, but I know I always will.

Thank you, Nepal, for welcoming us back. Danyabat 🙏